Category: Travel


Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge

Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge

I’ve been inside too long. It happens from time to time; the weather, work, general ennui keep me from getting out into the world. So when Beth called on Monday and insisted that we had to strike while the sun was shining, I couldn’t argue. That and the fact that she offered to make lunch for us. Lunch is always a clincher. She had heard of a recently renovated trail in a suburb of Portland. The area is called Sellwood and the trail is located in the Oaks Bottom Wildlife Refuge.

This is yet another thing I love about this corner of the world. Open spaces. Let’s face it, heading outside for a long walk generally means a lot of concrete and roadways.  The green around us is usually somewhat manicured – lawns, trees, landscaping. Pretty? Sure. But it is controlled nature; domesticated for daily use. Finding nature – real, unconstrained, feral nature? That’s a gem. And we have a lot of it around here. Stand in the middle of Forest Park in Portland and you could fool yourself into thinking that you were light years from civilization. Well, if you ignore the trail runners, dog walkers, and schlubs like me.

Discovery Park and Fauntleroy Park in Seattle have the same knack. The Hoyt Arboretum, also in Portland, is another. And so is Oaks Bottom.

There is some neatness about it, a little bit of that domestication. It arrives in the form of a neatly groomed trail replete with some raised, grated walkways (it is a wetland, after all), a nice observation area, some quaint wooden bridges and even a couple of nicely situated sitting areas. And yet even these amenities do not seem to diminish the wildness. Okay, there is one thing. There is a large – seriously huge – building that has attempted to blend in by way of some pretty murals of wetland birds on the trail-facing side of the bluff. I want to like it, but I found it a bit disorienting (this thing is several stories tall). Thankfully, it is easy to ignore if you want to, because there is all this wonderful river wetland just out there.

We watched lazy ducks dozing in the spring sun, looked hard for herons who were all doing a really good job of blending in to the landscape, marveled at wild violets and enthused over bursts of magenta, violet, and pink flowers that dotted the hillside. There were warblers and finches to serenade us, crows to heckle, and any number of breath taking views that seemed to appear out of nowhere.

I love that experience of silence that isn’t really silence. The sound of the wind in the trees, the birds, the rustle of undergrowth and of water in motion. The thousand little sounds that are easily missed in the hum of city life are symphony when you find them.

Beth noted that this is the sort of place you come back to in different seasons, as it will be different in summer, different in fall, different each time. Water will flood in and recede, birds will follow migratory patterns, trees will change colors. I have a feeling that we will be back, probably soon. Next time, perhaps, better prepared with all the gear – binoculars, cameras, a map…

We need green spaces, open spaces, access to nature. We need them on a fundamental level. We need the noisy silence of them, the grand spaces, the feel of earth under our feet. We need them in ways that are primal. I am deeply grateful that I live in a place that gets that. That understands how such places feed our souls.

Going Solo

In Paris on my first trip overseas.

Paris – on my first trip overseas. Taken with my little Kodak point and shoot, from the top of the Arc d e Triomphe.

I mentioned in a previous post that I am, by and large, a solo traveler. I like going with my friends, don’t get me wrong on that, it is just that as a single women with a lot of married friends the choice is either go it alone or don’t go. And not going just isn’t a choice for me. It really isn’t that big a thing in my book and yet the response I get when I mention that I have gone somewhere alone is one of surprise. “Really? By yourself? I don’t know how you do that!” is a pretty common thing.

How I do it is sort of a mystery to me as well. Maybe it is because I had a couple of good role models. A good friend, Susan, was forever haring off on solo adventures and coming back with the best stories of people she had met and things she had done. There were also some negative role models, to be honest, the trips from hell that friends talked about. The travel companion who won’t eat anything but McDonald’s, or the one who wanted to do nothing but go to bars until 3 am and then sleep the day away, or – my personal nightmare – the one who threw tantrums when unable to do exactly what they wanted.

It can get lonely, I won’t lie about that. I have the cell phone bills to prove that after two weeks alone I just want to talk to a friendly voice back home. Skype takes care of that little wrinkle now, thank heavens. There are times when a view, an experience, a meal,  is just so incredible that you dearly wish that there was someone there to share it with you. And yet I have found that if you look around, there is someone. Just maybe not someone you’ve met yet, but what better way to meet someone than that shared sunset, that amazing meal, that shared love for the Albert Memorial?

And then there are the folks who are sure that you are dooming yourself to great harm and violence. “Isn’t it scary?” they ask, or “Do you think that’s safe?” Yes, sometimes it can be a little scary. Getting lost can, I admit, induce anxiety. But then there is the feeling of triumph when you figure it out. I have gotten lost in many, many places and lived to tell the tale. There are the myriad of tales about scam artists, pick pockets, crooked cabbies and cops, and far worse. I have found that carrying myself with confidence, not needing to take everything I own with me, and just paying attention short circuits pretty much all of it. The woman who ‘found’ the gold ring she was sure was mine, but then offered to sell it to me? Yeah, that was amusing. The guy who did the same thing 30 feet later? Merely annoying.

Not to mention that most places are filled with people more than happy to help out in a bad situation. Fortunately I have never been in real danger, but I have been helped by a lot of strangers. The vendor in Paris who shooed away the guy who was following me, trying to convince me that I should go to dinner with him, that was amusing.  Being taken off a bus in London a week after the second set of attacks on public transport should have been more frightening, and would have been if my fellow passengers hadn’t seemed so annoyed by the inconvenience rather than afraid of the threat. Stories that are amusing in retrospect but somewhat scary when they happened. But for all of that, being safe in a foreign country isn’t all that different from being safe here at home.

Out of all of my experiences the scariest thing was getting on the plane that first time. My brother Erik likes to remind me that sometimes the only way out is through. On that day, that evening of my first solo trip overseas? I nearly turned around to go home a dozen times. I even called Erik twice, I think, to have him talk me down. That trip changed everything for me. I think of the places I wouldn’t have seen, the things I wouldn’t have done, the personalities I wouldn’t have met, and I can only smile. Smile and plot the next trip.

Itchy Feet

It’s been a while since I took any sort of real trip. Trips home, quick trips to Seattle, but nothing substantive. As is evidenced by the last couple of posts, I’ve also been sorting and re-homing my pictures from past trips. The result is that I am itching to go somewhere. Somewhere far away. Somewhere that involves a passport, a guidebook and that wonderful sense of adventure that comes from someplace new.

My love of travel started when I was a little girl. Then the trips I took were in my head, and my Mom is to blame. I traveled to Prince Edward Island with Anne of Green Gables, I played on the Hungarian plains with the young cousins in Kate Seredy’s novels and I wandered across England with books by Joan Aiken and Francis Hodgson Burnett. As a young adult I craved books that took place elsewhere, even outer space. I dreamed of the day I would finally see just one of these places.

My first big adventure was the Caribbean and it was wonderful. I snorkeled, I hiked to the top of a black rock fort, and drank one too many Killer Bees at Sunshine’s on Nevis (advertised as a ‘rum drink’ it is basically Caribbean moonshine, fruit punch and a grate of fresh nutmeg, with a sting that will kill you) and by one too many I mean one total. It was a great time with good friends and I couldn’t wait for the next trip.

It would take six years and a promise to a friend who left this world far too soon. I had long talked about the trips I was going to take – next year. Roger had been to so many incredible places and his tales of his adventures were as thrilling to me as those books I read as a kid. The last time I saw him he told me that we never know if next year is going to come around, so I had better get moving. It rocked my world. I realized that I couldn’t keep waiting on others to save the money or get the vacation or have the same interest; I had to go on my own.

I still remember the feeling of walking through Heathrow for the first time. The noise, the crowds, the utter confusion. I still remember the train into Paddington Station, standing under a tree waiting out a rainstorm with a couple that didn’t speak a word of English, getting horribly turned around trying to walk three blocks to Hyde Park. A lot of things went wrong on that first solo trip, but most everything went right. And even the things that went wrong? I gained this wonderful confidence that even lost in Paris, lost in London (and since then lost in many other places…) I could figure it out – and probably end up finding something pretty amazing as a result.

I have been to some pretty amazing places since then. Some rather mainstream, a couple a bit off the beaten path. I have met some pretty incredible people as a result from the two women who travel three weeks every year while their husbands stay home, watch sports and eat take out (their words) to the barman at the hotel in Amsterdam who would sit and talk with me in the late afternoon. I have stood in a castle on top of an island that smelled of lavender and rosemary, danced in an underground club in Sarajevo, biked along canals in Belgium and wandered through Roman ruins on the banks of the Rhone river.

Each trip gave me just a bit more confidence, a bit more hunger. I still haven’t seen the Hungarian plains. I haven’t been wine tasting in Mendoza. Wooden churches in the eastern Slovak Republic beckon, as does the Charles Bridge in Prague. There is something romantic in the notion of seeing South Korea where my Dad spent a couple of years of his young adulthood and I wouldn’t mind trying soba noodles in Sapporo, Japan.

They are all trips that I want to take now; these and a thousand more.

 

Snapshots

Église Saint-Georges, Lyon France.

Église Saint-Georges, Lyon France.

I’ve been going through my pictures. The imputes for this was the musings of a friend who is a prolific and talented photographer. He mentioned the – I kid you not – tens of thousands of pictures he has taken in his adult life. I have, roughly, no where near that many myself. Sometimes I find that I get too caught up in where I am to remember to snap a photo. Or thirty. I try to settle for a couple of great pictures to remind me of a city, a trip, an adventure.

In doing so I found a couple of favorites, which I think will make up my blog post today. My mind is far away; dreaming of places not yet visited and not really ripe for writing. I have been doing a lot of armchair traveling thanks to Google Earth and my soul is too restless to sit at my computer staring at a screen for too long.

 

 

 

Street musicians taking a break on the Pont St, Louis, Paris.

 

The Harbor at Kinsale, Ireland

The Harbor at Kinsale, Ireland

I am low on words at the moment. I am expecting a new shipment at any time, but at the moment all we have in stock are some remainders and tag ends. Hardly enough for a thoughtful and well rounded post. But as St. Patrick’s Day is tomorrow, I figured I could make up the deficit with some lovely pictures I took on the Hill of Slane in County Meath, Ireland. The tale goes that it was on this hill that St. Patrick lit the paschal fire to defy the pagan kings who were gathered on nearby Tara. It is also believed to be the burial site of Sláine mac Dela, king of the Fir Bolgs, the first High King of Ireland. Another legend holds that a healing well here – the Well of Slaine – was used by the fierce warriors of the Tuatha Dé Danann to heal their wounds during battle, making them nearly invincible. It is a mystical place, and I had the good fortune to visit on a misty, magical afternoonwith a tour guide who certainly had the Irish gift for telling a ripping tale.

The Abbey

A lone tree, seemed to capture the mystical air of the place.

A lone tree, seemed to capture the mystical air of the place.

Wonderful Celtic cross marking a grave.

Wonderful Celtic cross marking a grave.

And, of course, a statue of the man himself.

And, of course, a statue of the man himself.

 

 

Getting There

I have talked before about what I think makes a great city. I’ve talked about atmosphere and location, talked about natural beauty, talked about people. But I think one of the things that is essential to a great city is mass transit. A way to get around. A way to get from here to there.

The best ones are easy to navigate. Even the tangle of lines that makeup London’s Underground make sense after a minute or two of concentration. Paris is a bit harder, but still quite manageable. New York is excellent. In my area of the world, Portland has a great system that just keeps getting better with new additions. Seattle is trying hard, and if they ever end up connecting the dots it might be world class.

Seattle is on the right track, as it were, in that the best systems seem to be a conglomeration of a variety of transit options. London has the Underground, the Overground, the Docklands Light Rail and a myriad of trains that serve the outlying areas. Stand in the middle of Paddington Station on a weekday morning, right around eight a.m. and watch the place come alive. Trains roll in, people boil out heading to the tube or the buses queuing up outside. On the flip side, make that same visit during a transit strike and watch as people panic.

In my opinion, great cities have a quick, easy and affordable way to get from one transit hub to another. Trains from airports, or direct buses (not milk run routes that take forever) that serve both train stations and airports are a good sign. In this country we are at somewhat of a disadvantage. We have long been car-centric in our cities and it shows. We were also far more sparsely populated, especially on the west coast, when train travel became a viable form of long-distance travel. European countries by virtue of their age and geography were easily connected by train lines.

Where I think we fall down in this country is in how our mass transit is configured. Mostly, with the possible exception of a few large cities on the other coast, our mass transit serves a core portion of cities. Portland has a nice mix of light rail, street cars and buses, but they largely serve the downtown core. So a traveler staying in a downtown hotel is pretty much restricted to that area. Travel to the growing and vibrant neighborhoods of North Portland or Richmond, for example are stuck with buses on mainlines, or taxis.

Similarly, day trips are fairly restricted by a north/south only train line; great if you are interested in seeing Seattle or Salem, but a drag if you want to pop out to Hood River. Not to mention that your day trip to Seattle gives you one departure and one return time resulting in a five hour window to visit. Contrast that to London where trains leave continuously to a variety of places, giving a traveler flexibility.

We have issues that need to be resolved here. Our passenger trains basically rent track time from freight lines. And the freight lines get the right of way. There was a memorable Thanksgiving when I took the train from Seattle to Portland, and a three and a half hour ride turned into nearly six as we waited for two different freight trains to pass us and then got stuck behind the passenger train that had left two hours before us (it was an extra train to handle the holiday load). Crazy.

So yes, a good mass transit system should benefit locals and visitors alike. It makes a good city a great city in my opinion. It connects us in a way that roads and highways tend to divide us. We should make getting around as easy as getting there.

 

 

 

You Are Here

I was out wine tasting this weekend, like I do, and I had the chance to overhear a conversation that got me to thinking. Always a dangerous thing, thinking. The very nice young man behind the tasting bar was pouring wine for a group and explaining which vineyard the grapes had come from and where it was located. This is pretty standard stuff, it tells you a lot about the wine you are about to drink as the environment a grape grows in will profoundly affect the way the wine it is put into tastes. This guy, the customer – not being rude or unpleasant or anything – says “that’s all wasted on me, I just want to drink the wine.”

This was kind of bizarre to me – how could you not want to know that? And then it hit me, I am always interested in the place – the sense of place – of things. Not just food and wine, all of it. When I travel I am invested in the sense of place. What is it about here that makes it interesting? What makes that place what it is? Perhaps this is where my interest in wine and food and the like is rooted, this notion of why it is what it is. Why this works with that but not the other thing, why I am charmed by this place, but not that one.

Those moments when I get that satisfaction, that feeling that I am immersed in the day to day, those are golden to me. It is getting to know the lovely woman who owned the apartment I stayed in on Hvar. It is finding the great breakfast spot on a back street in Cork. It is watching a local football match or browsing a street market or having a picnic on a park bench like any other local. In those moments I have this picture in my head, one of those maps with the red dot with the words “you are here.” I live for those moments, for the times when I am so in my skin that I am part of the landscape.

Have a Picture

Heck, have two. We had one of those rare winter days where the rain stops and the sun peeks out. Seemed a perfect excuse for a road trip. Besides, I was low on wine. While I was out at Sokol Blosser I took these. Not that I don’t have several dozen pictures of vineyards, it is just that I never tire of the view.

The view towards Domain Drouhin.

The view towards Domain Drouhin.

 

The first is the view from just outside the tasting room towards Domaine Drouhin. This was my first real view of a vineyard in Oregon and every time I look at it, I am transported back to that moment. That ‘wow’ moment when it occurred to me that this was really my backyard now. It still feels pretty amazing to realize that.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mt. Hood, looking like a Sumi painting in the distance.

 

The second is Mt. Hood. Seattle and Portland folks have a similar quirk. You will hear us say “hey, the mountain is out.” It is said in that tone of voice reserved for ‘important observations.’ In Seattle, the mountain is Rainier, in Portland it is Hood. The first time you hear yourself say this, in that tone of voice? That is the moment you realize you are part of the tribe. We laugh about it, we joke about it, but underneath it all I think we are secretly worried that the clouds might lift and the mountain will be gone; it is part of how we orient, how we know where we are. It is one of our touchstones.

One of the very best things, at least in my view, about the Northwest are the farmers’ markets. I think I have been primed for these since childhood. My mom was an excellent gardener as you would expect from a girl who grew up on a farm. She had a green thumb that I envy to this day. Sure, I can keep a plant alive and I can often get tomato plants to produce but that is the extent of it. In any case, she always had a garden and the things she grew always tasted so much better than anything from the supermarket.

Fast forward to my adult years, on my own living in Seattle and the produce at the supermarket was pretty good, then one day I wandered into Pike Place Market and discovered farm stands. Fresh fruit, fresh vegetables – things that had been on the plant or in the ground at the most 24 hours ago. Wow. That was my first introduction, but it would be a couple of years before I would discover the joy of the markets that set up in the street or park or parking lot. The lines of farmers, soap makers, jewelry artists, cheese mongers, bakers, spice hawkers, tea sellers that formed up on weekend mornings to bring their wares to people like me.

There was a time when the height of decadence for a Sunday morning was a pot of good coffee, a really sinful pastry and the Sunday paper. I have traded that in for a prowl along the purveyors found on Ballard Avenue, for the big splash of food stands and wine makers to be found at Portland State or the more intimate gathering of farmers and dog biscuit makers to be found in Esther Short Park of Vancouver, WA.

Everything you could want is there – the coffee stand that has the full array of drip coffee to fru-fru lattes, the baker who sets out a tempting assortment of pastries, the grower who arranges piles of seasonal produce so beautiful that you become confident that you will indeed find a recipe for those heirloom beans you had never heard about before. There are the gorgeous specimens of plant life that get you to dreaming about that garden you never wanted to start, next to the woman who makes artisan dog biscuits. From the necessary to the ridiculous (at least for you, but perhaps not for the person next to you), it can be found there.

There is a practicality about it, if you look for it. I eat more vegetables and fruit during that period from May to October – the usual season for the markets – than I do the rest of the year. From these markets I have come to love the seasonality of produce; that a tomato tastes best in late summer when it comes straight from the vine, that apples are at their crisp and juicy glory in the fall, that artichokes are a product of high summer (and can be split for grilling). I have learned to wander the stands in the early spring in anticipation of the first greens, greedy for the produce I have missed in the cold and dark winter months.

They have come to punctuate the seasons of my life here. I look forward to that opening day knowing there won’t be much there but happy to banter with the folks who gamely man the sparse stalls, talking hopefully about what is about to ripen. I enjoy the nonchalance of the summer months when I become complacent over the bounty on display, looking critically at each stand to find the best salad greens or the best price on snap peas. And there is the certain sadness in the late fall knowing that the market is getting ready to close for the season, only to be followed by the anticipation in late winter that the opening weekend is approaching.

So for the people who grow the produce, for the artists and artisans who get up early on weekends to flog their wares I am grateful. Grateful to live in a place that understands the value they bring.

Pinot Noir Grapes

Pinot Noir Grapes

Lately I’ve been a bit housebound. A combination of weather, projects and job hunting have conspired to keep me indoors and thus there hasn’t been much to write about. Then this morning I was in the car and the station that has dedicated itself to all Christmas Carols All the Time, played a song that seems to be associated with Christmas, though to me it will always be a strong reminder of the ignominy of my sixth grade choir days (when the teacher told me to just ‘lip sync’…). It is “My Favorite Things” from the Sound of Music.

It got me to thinking about just that – my favorite things. The things that I am thrilled to have found, the places that I love to go back to, the people who are part and parcel of why they are my favorite things. So I thought I would take some time and fill a few posts between now and the New Year with them.

So first up is Sokol Blosser Winery. This is a favorite destination, one of the places in Dundee that I stop into time and again, whenever I am in the area, and never get tired of. Why is it a favorite? It goes well beyond the wine, which I am quite fond of. A large part of it is that they just have really great people.

Seriously, they have the memories of elephants, the patience of Job and know a lot about wine to boot. I have been in this place when it was wall to wall people, on the most crowded days they see, and yet they are always gracious, personable, happy to see you. I’m sure they get stressed out on such days, they would have to be super human not to, but there they are with a smile on their face and happy to answer all your questions. This a smart, fun, and funny group who believe in the product they are making, who feel like it is a big extended family that is running the place. There are some places in the region who we have dubbed “Domaine Snooty Pants” because that is the vibe they give off, places that look askance at you if you arrive in a vehicle that costs less than the GNP of a small European country. Sokol Blosser is not one of them.

Another reason I love this place is the setting. The tasting room has some of the most beautiful views in the area. They are in the midst of building a new one (I imagine that they need a bigger space) and my fervent hope is that they will still have the incredible vistas that I love. The sweeping expanse of vineyards, the charming houses, the trees in the distance; I would be willing to bet that half the pictures I have on my camera were taken at this place.

Then there is the wine. Yeah, the wine. This is the very first wine club I ever joined. It is the only one I have stuck with over the last few years. They have a nice variety of wines, and make my favorite all-purpose red (Evolution Red). The prices run from affordable to splurgable. And then there is the rose. Oh my. Their Rose of Pinot Noir is truly summer in a glass and while almost everyone in the area is making one of these, this is still my favorite.

So there it is, Sokol Blosser. One of my favorite things.